Hey, some of you might’ve seen this one here http://dovjenko.net/kanye1.jpg , I did a remix out of that, inspired by the GLOW IN THE DARK Tour by Yeezy. Check this :
First I met her works when was passing through ArtLebedev Studio illustrators page. She worked there as a freelance illustrator. I was absolutely mesmerized by the sensuality and the breathtaking detalization presented by her artworks. Their clean erotism was engraved in my mind and next time I saw her personal portfolio I was sure that met exactly same person. Her branded artistic style playing its role.
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We recently completed the illustration and animation for Green Days latest music video ’21st Century breakdown.’ The narrative touches on everything from love, and war, to politics and death. The challenge for us was surprisingly not just the shear amount of work (2 weeks to animate 4 minutes) but to take an approach we have seen so much of with stencil art, and attempt to bring it to life in a new and fresh way.
Also to double up, we recently refreshed with tons of new motion work on our site http://www.laundrymat.tv for the likes of nascar, ed banger records and leroy smith. Enjoy!
New Zealand’s 2009 BeST Design Awards were held last night at the Auckland Museum. We are delighted to announce that PILOT won the GOLD Award in the graphic design for editorial category. Congratulations to Arch, Jason and the team at InHouse for their fantastic work on PILOT. Arch and Jason are now working on the design for issue 3 and it is looking epic… Issue 3 releases early December….
MailArts Project Collaboration for celebrate 10 Years Indie Guerrillas and will be show in Yogyakarta Biennal Exhibition next month
The Iyaric dialect was developed to shine a light on how hegemonic vocabularies can insidiously create and reinforce negativity and cultural oppression. Dedication becomes Livication to remove the hidden reference to death. Everliving replaces Everlasting to neutralize the implication of something being “last” and final. Rastafarians keep their eye (or ear) tuned to protect their values from quiet abuse and manipulation.
But there’s nothing inherently negative in the construction or phonetic of the word “Shoddy”. There was no reason for anybody, even a militant Rastafarian, to identify it as needing special protection. So how did Shoddy come to mean something bad when it started out meaning something good, -something nearly miraculous?
Renew, Reuse and Recyle the Cloth. Recapture, Resurrect and Reclaim the Meaning
The mainstream mechanism of contemporary fashion depends on a black magic capable of conjuring culture-wide forgetfulness. Like Obi-Wan, “these are not the droids you’re looking for…”. Like George Orwell, “we are at war with Eurasia and have always been at war with Eurasia….”. We celebrate Eli Whitney’s invention of the cotton gin in 1793 and Sanford Lockwood Cluett’s development of Sanforization. We honor Charles Mackintosh’s creation of rubberized cloth and are still impressed by John Barbour’s refinement of waxed canvas. But untill last weekend I, at least, had never been told of Benjamin Law’s invention of Shoddy in 1813 (a mere 20 years after the cotton gin) nor his nephew’s development of its close relative, Mungo.
Benjamin Law was the first to organise, on a larger scale, the activity of taking old clothes and grinding them back down into a fibrous state that could be re-spun into yarn. The importance of the industry can be gauged by the fact that even in 1860 over 7000 tons of shoddy were being produced in the town of Bately with 80 firms employing a total of 550 people sorting the raw material. But I’m not expert enough to give a history lesson. Just check Wiki or Maggie Blanck to learn what most of us forgot.
Essentially Law created a means of grinding down used wool garments and blankets to fibers which could be respun and woven into Shoddy cloth. This allowed for the production of wool from an entirely new source in the midst of a national wool shortage and gave rise to the rag & bone trade as more widespread means of gathering these raw materials. His nephew figures out how to compliment the Shoddy offer with a more premium fabric recycled from the clippings of unused wool scaps leftover form the tailoring and garment-making trades. This recycled but also unworn material was called Mungo.
So it turns out shoddy doesn’t mean shoddy at all. Shoddy doesn’t mean slapped together, substandard or poor. Or, at least it shouldn’t. It should mean ingenious, resourcefull, renewable and loaded with character, texture and history. Nothing shoddy about that. Still, Nike called this self-same process “Nike Regrind” but we can forgive them for not using its right name.
It seems to me Shoddy could refer to the search for character, texture and history among today’s rag-piles as well. It’s the endeavor of market pickers and vintage purveyors all-over the world. Shoddy is the gorgeous output of the searchers and sellers from The Rose Bowl to Spitalfields, to Clignancourt to Waterlooplien to Brimfield and so on. Today’s rag & bone elite.
Like the folks documented in MKT. One of A-Life’s annual Cone Denim volumes dedicated to vintage pickers in the denim/workwear circuit. Like Kerry Johnston, Larry McKaungha from Heller’s Cafe, Bobby Garnett of Bobby from Boston and Takeshi Ohfuci of Post Overalls shown above.
Jennifer discovered this shoddy bit of lost history recently and couldn’t wait to fill me in. I always feel a little stupider than usual when something like this emerges. I feel stupid and a bit like I’ve been tricked. Is there some self-serving entity out there who intentionally corrupted and undermined the true meaning of Shoddy only to return a century later heralding the dawn of the new Greening and admonishing us all for being so late to cause? Yes, there is such an entity. It’s our industry with all of its narcissistic artifice and ritual forgetting. We know and we forgive it for the most part. After all, we love the field we’re all tilling in, turnips and all. We’ve also got the humility to realize that not everyone has forgotten. A simple internet query reveals companies like Remstar in Romania, Trans Americas Trading Co in the USA and the Eros Group in India (and countless others of course) actively marketing their reground wool product under the Shoddy name today. While they continue this far-from-shoddy tradition, we also fumble to find words for something that already has a name. Along with our sourcing and production partners, we work very hard at DENHAM on our own shoddy projects, re-cutting japanese boro cloth and re-using military gore-tex for recent designs. We’re not the only ones and we admire the efforts of our contemporaries occasionally involved the same pursuit. But neither us nor them ever called our work shoddy.
But now we want our word back. Give us back our brilliant inspiring goddamn Shoddy, and while we’re at it we’ll take it with a shot of Mungo for good measure.